Let's face it. If there is a wine varietal that has struggled to gain respect in the New World, it is Pinot Noir. Old timers, and even many young Americans with Old World palates, cannot seem to escape their mindsets that the only fine Pinot Noir is produced in France -- more specifically, in the Burgundy (Bourgogne) region. And, in fact, for most of wine history this two mile wide, thirty mile long stretch of hills called the Côte d'Or (Slope of Gold) was the only region to achieve consistent success from the Pinot Noir vine. But the world moves on, and the Pinot Noirs produced in California and Oregon are now undisputedly world class as well. Today we focus on the Golden State.

If there is anything that is agreed upon by winemakers, it is that growing Pinot Noir can be an adventure. Difficulties seem to exist at every phase of the process. The parent vine will frequently produce fruit with different aromas and flavors. Although quite tolerant of cold climates, Pinot Noir is early leafing and thus particularly susceptible to spring frosts. The sharpshooter, which carries the deadly Pierce's Disease, finds this grape to be an inviting host. The vines are not overly vigorous, and often lack adequate leaf cover to protect the fruit from birds. If the fruit does survive, it must be picked promptly at maturity, or risk that the thin-skinned and tender berries will shrivel and dry out rapidly, resulting in an unwanted raisiny aroma and neutral flavor.

Things don't get much easier during fermentation. Partly due to the presence of 18 amino acids, Pinot ferments violently, often "boiling" up and out of its container. Color retention is a problem for the thin-skinned berries, and Pinot is prone to acetification, often losing at bottling promising aromas and flavors it displayed through fermentation and aging.

With all the challenges above, one can easily accept that the talent of the winemaker is of paramount importance. In Burgundy, a number of natural factors help as well. The vineyards slope gently down and face the East, providing the vines with long sun exposure while avoiding afternoon heat. The regional soil is very chalky and offers good drainage, which promotes higher temperatures and, thus, ripening. Nevertheless, poor climactic conditions have more often than not adversely affected French vines over the past decade or so, while in that period of time California Pinot growers have duplicated or bettered topographical and other viticultural needs, all the while being blessed with stellar weather. Is it any wonder that unbiased tasters are now more than willing to give California Pinot Noirs, especially those made from a single vineyard, their overdue accolades? As many of the best know winemakers in California say about their products, "These are the wines the French would make if they could grow ripe grapes."

Not every area of California is conducive to growing Pinot Noir successfully, but the best seem to come from generally the same areas that have seen Chardonnay achieve spectacular heights. These include, in no particular order, Carneros (in both Sonoma and Napa Counties), Russian River Valley (Sonoma County), Santa Maria Valley (Santa Barbara County), Anderson Valley (Mendocino County), Santa Lucia Highlands (Monterey County), the Sonoma Coast, and The Pinnacles (Monterey County). And, as you might have guessed, we have our own favorite producers who are bottling simply delicious examples of what Pinot Noir in California has become. Let's look at them. All are far better than good, and an * means we believe it to be something really special.

• Arcadian: Joe Davis is producing quite a number of single vineyard bottlings, and all reflect how susceptible Pinot Noir is to its particular terroir. Fortunately, Joe is a master and all of his wines are distinctive and sophisticated. Enjoy any of the following: 2001 Gold Coast ($22); 2001 Sleepy Hollow ($30); 2001 Pisoni ($75); 2001 Fiddlesticks ($50); and 2001 Gary's Vineyard ($45)*. The last is our favorite, especially at the price.
• Byron: 2002 Sierra Madre ($40) - ripe flavors in a firm structure with fully developed, silky tannins, and a long, plush finish.
• Ceja: 2001 Sonoma Carneros ($38) - leather and tobacco at the back follow dark fruit and a big palate. Domaine Alfred: 2001 Califa ($42)* - huge mouth and a finish of plums, black cherry, and anise that will last for days. As our notes whimsically quote vintner Terry Spizer, this wine is "Very Okey Dokey."
• Donum Estate: 2001 ($60)* - as fine a Pinot as is being produced in California in our opinion. Quite an accomplishment for a first bottling. This bottle has it all: spice, deep black fruit, leather, earth, a silky mouthfeel, and smooth transition from layer to layer.
• Fess Parker: 2001 Marcellas ($40) - mushrooms and forest overtones with long back palate; 2001 Ashley's ($40) - pepper and spice, yet light and elegant.
• Foley: 2001 Dierberg ($44) - shows good terroir and a long peppermint finish.
• Foxen: 2002 Sea Smoke ($60)* - inky and dark, almost looking like a Syrah, yet elegant and silky, with terroir and balance. Will be Foxen's future flagship.
• Gloria Ferrer: 2001 Carneros ($26) - fragrant red berries and violets, with anise and earth; 2000 Gravel Knob ($40) - earth and leather melds nicely with mocha, toast, and dried herbs; 2000 Rust Rock Terrace ($40)* - ripe black plums and spice hit the front of the mouth before a silky smooth mid palate bridges the spice to the long leather finish.
• Merry Edwards: 2002 Sonoma Coast ($27) - blueberry with toasty oak; 2001 Klopp Ranch ($48)* - a big wine with smooth tannins, the distinctive black fruits come forth in layers; 2001 Meredith Estate ($45) - reminds us of a forest floor with berries, 2002 Olivet Lane ($51)* - ripe black cherry with long silky finish integrates beautifully with the earth and toast.
• Paul Hobbs: 2001 Hyde ($75)* - though perhaps overpriced, this is a gorgeous, dark red wine with berries, earth, and a silky but full finish.
• Robert Stemmler: 2001 Carneros ($31) - elegant front of the mouth and a smooth finish of black berries; 2001 Ferguson Block ($39)* - Dark berries begin, and run seamlessly into leather and spice and everything nice; 2001 Nugent Vineyard ($31) - a floral overtone precedes a wine with good layers.
• Tenuta: 2001 Estate ($24) - a good first effort, and shows what might be possible for Pinots in Livermore.
• Testarossa: 2002 Gary's Vineyard($49)* - luscious and concentrated, with black plums and one of those finishes you search for, but rarely find.
• ZD: 1999 Carneros ($36) - cherries and strawberries burst in the mouth, while leather and the forest control the finish. ZD's best wine for years, even though the current release is 2001. Try to find this vintage -- it will be good until at least 2007.

A good Pinot is a top food wine. We like it with a piece of plain roast beef, or with roasted or braised duck, veal, or lamb. Meaty fish, such as swordfish or salmon, are also superb matches. Beware: don't enjoy highly spiced food when drinking Pinot Noirs, as some spices will mask the delicate flavor and stress hot alcohol -- not what you are looking for from this versatile wine.

Fine California Pinot Noirs, such as the wonderful wines above, are impressive and memorable. The aromas are intense, the body full and rich (yet not heavy), the alcohol level pleasingly high without untoward acidity or tannins, the mouthfeel silky, and the flavors quite substantial despite their delicacy. Move over Burgundy.

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