In 1998, Tony Sindaco finally realised his dream of opening his own restaurant - the Sunfish Grill in Florida - after working around the world and collecting awards for two decades.

Sindaco started his culinary career at the age of 14, washing dishes and prep cooking, in local restaurants and country clubs in his home state of Pennsylvania. As a true Italian-American, cooking is in his blood. "It's something that always came easy to me," he says.

Apprenticeship over, Sindaco went on to Georgetown Hotel in Washington D.C., and Cafe Erte in Hollywood. He has won three silver medals and one bronze medal at the 1984 and 1988 Frankfurt Culinary Olympics.

The Sunfish Grill is a 40-seater, open-plan space. One critic referred to the restaurant - where you can watch the chefs at work in the open kitchen - as "nearly perfect" with "superb seafood, a Mediterranean feel and exuberant spirit - food served in an atmosphere that is hip, urban and totally unpretentious."

The mainly seafood menu, which includes grilled Dolphin, is kept short (seven starters, five mains, plus daily specials). Sindaco insists on cooking with the freshest catch available - and the man himself oversees every dish. As he says, "It's just a small restaurant - I gotta be in the kitchen."

When did you first decide to become a chef?
I come from a true Italian family, where everyone cooks, and you know we didn't have all the money in the world so we had to make all our own stuff. We always made our own pasta, and grew our own tomatoes and canned them for the winter. Cooking just came easy to me.

How did it feel to finally get your restaurant?
I'd been wanting to open one for some time - it's every chef's goal, to have your own place. It's when you really come into your own.

What's your favorite wine?
Choosing areas and vintners is easier than choosing a favourite wine. My favourites include: The Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs of newcomers, Joe Davis at Arcadian, Rob Jensen at Testarossa and the father of California Pinot Noir, David Bruce. Also, the Stags Leap District of Napa Valley goes well with our seafood cuisine. The likes of Doug Shafer's Hillside Select, Sheldon Wilson's Chimney Rock Reserve and Warren Winiarski's SLV Vineyards Cabernets.

What are your wine tips for the future?
I am a chef, not a wine expert. However, I do know what our customers like and what goes well with our style of cuisine. The new varieties of wine that I think will start to become increasingly popular are Syrah's and Zinfandel's. Jade Mountain is producing a great Hudson Vineyard Syrah and Bruce Neyers is producing a fabulous Toffanelli Vineyard Zinfandel. My prediction is that the small independent wine makers, with ties to great growers, attention to detail and highlighting single vineyard production will be the thing of the future.

What is your favourite restaurant?
My favourite restaurant, hands down is in New York City. The Gotham Bar and Grill with Chef/Partner Alfred Portale has been an inspiration to me for the past twelve or so years. He is an innovator, as well as a great culinarian. Another chef I admire greatly is Bill Telepan at Judson Grill in New York. He worked with Alfred Portala at Gotham and is certainly one of the most innovative and billiant cooks working at the moment.

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